Honestly, I did not plan visiting Sevilla this summer, but my return flight from Malaga was cancelled due to the oil crisis (and some air companies got rid of nonprofitable directions), so I needed to find a new route back. There were no convenient flights from Malaga for my dates, so I started to look for the airports around. And I found one, not very far. In Sevilla. I have already visited Sevilla this winter, and at that time I wished to come back during some warmer season. So, my wish came true.
I travelled with the high speed train from Malaga to Seville. The journey took 2 hours, and now I am at Sevilla Santa Justa train station, which has such extremely spacious, modernistic, unusual architecture.
Some walk through the modern part of the city.
And in 20 minutes I am already entering the old town area.
In advance I have ordered some long excursion with visiting the most prominent landmarks of the city: Real Alcazar of Seville, Seville Cathedral and Giralda.
We started with Alcazar.
Alcazar is a royal palace, but it has Islamic origins, and this complex (which is now around 78000 m2, or 11 football fields) began as a Muslim government palace in the 10th century. So, this place has such a long history, hidden details and many interesting stories, which should be definitely told by an experienced guide.
The courtyards and halls are decorated here with intricate geometric tiles, carved plaster, horseshoe arches and mosaic ceilings. These decorative elements come from Islamic traditions, where geometry, symmetry, repetition, floral motifs and calligraphy were used to create a sense of harmony and infinity. What makes it especially interesting is that many of these elements were continued and refined after Christian rulers took Seville, creating the distinctive Mudejar style, when Christian palaces were decorated with an Islamic visual language.
The huge part of the complex is gardens. These enormous gardens combine Islamic, Renaissance and later styles, with courtyards, fountains, ponds and orange trees. And one very noticeable detail about gardens here is literally the obsession with water. But running water was not just decoration at those times, it was basically an architectural version of the air conditioning. Narrow channels, pools fountains and shaded courtyards were creating cool pockets throughout the palace in the brutally hot city.
There was a moment, when I had a thought to visit the palace without any guides. Just enjoy the beauty around, without rushing.
Then we went to the cathedral, which is just a few steps from the palace. The Seville Cathedral (Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede) is considered to be the largest Gothic cathedral in the world (occupying about 23500 m2), built on the site of the former Almohad mosque.
But first of all, we climbed the Giralda, the 104 metres tower, which was originally a minaret (from 1184 until 1248, when Seville was conquered by Ferdinand III of Castile).
By the way, the name Giralda comes from the Spanish verb "girar", meaning "to turn" or "to rotate". The thing is that at the top of the tower there is a large bronze weather-vane figure, which actually is turning with the wind. It is a female figure, and allegory of the Christian Faith.
So, the most fascinating thing is that the lower two-thirds still preserve the architecture of the original Islamic minaret (late 12th century), while the upper part reflects later Christian and Renaissance Seville (from 1500s). It's therefore another visible example of the city's layered Islamic and Christian history.
To reach the top, you climb a series of wide ramps. They were designed so that a person could reportedly ride a horse or mule up the tower.
We are inside the cathedral now. Dimensions of the Gothic section is 126 metres long and 83 metres wide. And at the central crossing it is 37 metres high (it is like a 12-storey building). And it has five naves, but usually you might see only three naves in the large churches. It is very unexpected, because many Gothic churches give you a strong sensation of height, but here it gives you height with extraordinary horizontal breadth.
Another remarkable thing. These gigantic golden altarpiece, which took several generations to make. The works started in 1482 and continued during the next 80 years. It is almost 30 metres high and 20 metres wide, which makes it the largest altarpiece in Christendom. Actually, this big wall of gold is an enormous wooden sculpture, and the scenes with the figures are carved from walnut and chestnut, and then covered with gilding.
Did you know that Columbus was buried inside Seville Cathedral? Actually, his remains were moving from one place to another (Valladolid-Seville-Santo Domingo-Havana). But since 1898 you can find his remains in Seville Cathedral inside a monumental tomb supported by four allegorical figures representing the kingdoms of Castile, Leon, Aragon and Navarre. At the moment, the place is under renovation and you cannot approach closer.
However, the Dominican Republic maintains that Columbus's remains are still in Santo Domingo. Moreover, Cristopher Columbus himself wanted his remains to be associated with the lands he had discovered, particularly Hispaniola (the island which is in Santo Domingo).
The observation of the city continues without the guide now. One more peculiar thing, the blankets stretching over the narrow streets to protect people from the heating sun. And another interesting thing: some enormous columns (9 metres tall and roughly 15 tones each) at the entrance of the broad promenade. These columns are actually from the ancient Roman empire time, with Hercules and Julius Caesar on the tops. Both figures are traditionally regarded as the founders of the city.
And lots of tapas to celebrate the ending of my summer vacation.
I think I should wish again, to visit Sevilla one more time. But I hope, that it will be a planned journey. And I should definitely visit some art galleries here!
