Yesterday, late at the evening, I found out that there are no fast trains connecting Madrid and Sevilla. I mean, the high speed trains exist, but they all were cancelled due to some tragic accident a month ago, and there are some works, which are still in progress. I did not have any idea that the trains were cancelled, so I started searching in rush the way how to get to Sevilla. I just could not skip visiting this city, because I have already paid for the hotel, and my return plane ticket to Prague is also from Sevilla airport.
I was even considering using the bus, but 8 hours on a bus is too much for me. Luckily, I have found the train tickets, with the same duration of 8 hours, but with the change at the city Jaen. So, instead of 3 hours on the high-speed train, I would need to spend half of a day on the road :-(
Early in the morning I went to the central railway station of Madrid, Madrid Puerta de Atocha, which is quite close to the city centre. This is my third time when I used my transport card in Madrid. So, I will have some journeys left for my next visiting of Madrid, I hope they will not disappear.
My long journey to Andalusia finally has started. And then I have discovered another bad piece of news. Between two trains there will be an additional bus. Just my luck!
Nevertheless, I was not lost between the stops, and arrived to Sevilla safe and sound. It is 18:30, only 30 minutes delay, and I still have time to observe some of the city, but first I need to get to my hotel.
By the way, Seville’s main railway station, Santa Justa, was built for Spain’s first high-speed train line, which opened in 1992 between Seville and Madrid. That line made Spain one of the earliest countries in Europe to adopt true high-speed rail, before many other countries had even started planning theirs.
The station’s design is intentionally simple and functional compared to older Spanish stations. That’s because it was built during a time when Spain was rapidly modernizing its infrastructure ahead of Expo ’92, and efficiency mattered more than decoration. The most interesting part is the huge roof over the tracks. It’s made of steel and glass, so sunlight comes in easily. So, during the day, you almost don’t need artificial lights. It feels open, not heavy or crowded.
The walk to the edge of the historic center from the railway station is about 15–20 minutes. So, when you walk straight out of the station, the first thing you see isn't a palace; it’s a lot of blocky, beige and gray apartment buildings.
Another interesting fact, Sevilla is famous for having over 40000 orange trees, more than any other city in the world. And now I can see numerous trees planted along the streets. One of the main reasons of so many orange trees in the city is that the thick, evergreen leaves provide year-round shade for the warmest city in continental Europe (summer temperatures (July–August) frequently exceed 40°C here).
Suddenly, the view is changing to more narrow streets with 300-year-old houses, towers and churches. In fact, Sevilla is most famous for its unique fusion of Islamic and Christian styles, which creates a look found nowhere else in the world. The thing is that from 711 to 1248, much of southern Spain, including Seville, was under Muslim rule (Al-Andalus). And this left a strong architectural legacy in such details as: intricate geometric patterns (designed with many tiny, repeating shapes), horseshoe arches, decorative tilework (azulejos), courtyards with fountains and gardens etc.
The first wow-object in the city centre for me was the Metropol Parasol, also called “Las Setas” (The Mushrooms), which is a large modern structure in Seville that looks like a group of giant wooden mushrooms. It was built between 2005 and 2011 and designed by Jurgen Mayer.
The building has different levels. Underneath it, there are ancient Roman ruins that were discovered during construction. At ground level, there is a market and open public space. On top, there is a walkway where people can walk and see views over the city.
It looks very impressive and unusual, because it combines very old history with modern architecture in one place. It also stands out a lot, because its smooth, curved shape is completely different from the traditional buildings around it.
Now I am on the small square, just a few steps from the busy city centre, in front of my hotel.
It is called Hotel Sevilla. The lobby and the corridors are so aesthetic, with the vibe of boutique hotel, where you can enjoy walking in.
Still, my room is very ascetic, without grand view, but I am very satisfied with my choice, because of the perfect location and affordable price (182 euro for two nights). Next time I would love to stay here again.
After checking-in I headed in search of some food, because I was starving. I have decided to stay in some bar and to order some tapas. Honestly, it was very simple food (patatas bravas, croquetas, calamares), quite greasy, but enough not to feel hungry anymore. All in all, including non-alcoholic beer, I have paid 23.15 euro. For the next time I have promised to myself to look for the restaurant more carefully.
After such food full of calories I should walk a little bit around the night city.
For tomorrow, I am planning to observe as much of the city as possible, so, I need to start my walking early in the morning.
