Italy, The Stone Bridges

It has been raining cats and dogs the whole night and the whole morning. There was not any opportunity to leave the house until the noon. So, I devoted this time to reading and chatting with my host. Meanwhile, Carlos recommended me to visit two nearby places, which are known primarily for its old stone bridges.

Fortunately, the forecast came true, and the sky has cleared up soon. So, I started my next excursion program.

I arrived to Borgo a Mozzano, a small town, which is situated at the distance of one stop by train from my place. 

This town was first mentioned in 879, and once was the most important center in the Serchio Valley. So, there are some remarkable architectural forms here, including medieval palaces and striking ancient churches.
Obviously, it is not the hot season now, so the city looked deserted.

Still, I came here not to shoot the empty streets, but to see the famous Magdalene Bridge, also known as the Devil's Bridge. Indeed, it looks really unearthly, and it seems almost impossible that it had been built by human hands. There also an old legend, saying that the bridge was built with the help of the Lucifer, who asked some price for his work. The price was the first soul, which would cross the bridge. Surely, the demon wanted to have the human's soul, however, the mason tricked the devil by letting a pig cross the street first.

The bridge has a peculiar shape with a high arch in the middle called the "donkey’s back" while the rest of the arches are asymmetric. The stunning look of the bridge is supported by the sweeping landscape with the green hills.

Another remarkable place near Bagni di Lucca is the city of Castelnuovo. It is the main city of the Carfagnana area, and it is positioned at the merging of the river Serchio with the Turrite Secca. The city itself is beautiful and very cozy to stroll around. Moreover, the experienced people say that the genuinely delicious pizza can be found precisely at the local restaurants of Custelnuovo.

It is another town, where I do not meet people in the streets. Probably, they all are gone to the bigger cities for working. Where are people? Though, there was nobody to answer my question.

I should admit that the bridges in Italy are something exceptional. People always found the source of wonder in these constructions, which miraculously connected the divided banks. I also fall in love with these ancient constructions, built in the Medieval times and preserved till the present time. In truth, there are many bridges at Custelnuovo, so I could not but take time and admire some of them.

I am back home. And again I am at the restaurant 'Da Mamo' eating pasta with tomato sauce. Good food and exceptionally warm service.

Tomorrow I am leaving this pictorial place of Bagni di Lucca and moving to another area of Tuscany with absolutely different scenery. Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to visit the neighboring places such as the town of Barga, the hidden mountain villages and the healing thermal spa resorts. Besides, there are so many organized tours for bikers and hikers here. Anyway, now I have many reasons to return to Bagni di Lucca and continue my exploration.

Italy, Tuscany Triangle

When I woke up and looked out the window I saw the fantastic view on the tile roofs of the small town, surrounded by the low mountains. Everything was covered with a light mist. At that moment I realized that I have chosen the right place to stay. In fact, I have been looking for this scenery throughout the many years.

Bagni di Lucca is the first stop of my trip around Tuscany. Actually, there will be three main stops in different locations in this area. In fact, initially I have booked only one unique place for staying, but suddenly I realized that there was no public transport at all, and without a car it would be a problem in getting around. So, I had to cancel my reservation in haste and find other places, more accessible. The main criteria was the walking distance to a train station. So, I am going to halt at Bagni di Lucca, Empoli and Incisa. Figuratively, these are three pivots, three vertexes of the 'Tuscany Triangle'.

Well, Bagni di Lucca is nestled at the foot of the Apennine mountain range. Historically, the area of Bagni di Lucca is famous for its thermal waters with their healing and regenerative properties. It became extremely popular among aristocracy and famous people during the 19th century, probably because of the fact that the first licensed casino was opened here in 1837. It is noteworthy, that this place was visited by such outstanding personalities as Shelley, Byron and Puccini. However, these days it is a quiet town, where you may find peace and rest among the gorgeous hills.

I have made a small walking around the area and eventually reached the train station. I did not want to turn back, so I decided to visit the nearby city of Lucca.

The cashier is not available at the station, so there is only machine ticket which accepts only coins. Unfortunately, I did not have enough coins. Just my luck! At least I could buy a single ticket on the website trenitalia.it for 3.60 euro. The rules states that I would need to present my ID to confirm the right of using the electronic ticket. I have left the passport at home, but I hope that the plastic card, which I used for the payment, would save the situation.

I have arrived to Lucca, and nobody asked for my ticket.

Well, the ancient city of Lucca is primarily known for its well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling its historic city center. And nowadays it is inhabited by 90000 people.
Among famous personalities, which made the city even more popular, is the world-renowned Italian opera composer, Giacomo Puccini, who was born in this city.
Another peculiar fact is that Lucca remained an independent city state until the end of the 18th century.

Of course, the city has expanded and modernized since the Medieval times, but the major tourist destinations remained 'untouched' inside the walled old city. Once the city was nicknamed as 'the city with 100 churches', so there is evidently something to observe here.

In the old days Lucca was home to many tall towers. As a matter of fact, they counted as many as 250 defensive tower houses. Those towers were built during the era when Italy was full of mercenaries and political upheaval. They were not only the wealth indicators, but they also served as the hideaways in plague years. Still, only a few towers remained today, and only two of them can be climbed onto.

Actually, I have visited only one tower, which was built in the second half of the fourteenth century by the Guinigis. The height of the Guinigi Tower is 45 meters, and it has in total 232 steps to reach the top (what is interesting is that the original stairs were on the outside).
What makes the Torre Guinigi so fascinating is that you can find oak trees sprouting from the roof of the red brick tower. The Guinigi family planned this garden to represent rebirth and renewal.

Another tower, which I have not visited, is called Torre delle Ore or the Clock Tower, and it is 50 metres high. It has survived so long due to the fact that it has had the clock since 1390.

The San Michele church with its magnificent and very high marble facade is considered to be one of the most frequented and enchanting tourist attractions in Lucca. The church was built over the ancient Roman forum, but today's look it obtained as the result of the 11th century reconstruction ordered by Pope Alexander. 

The summit of the church are flanked by the statues of two angels and the 4 meter tall statue of the St. Michael the Archangel, which is positioned in the center of the church structure. Obviously, the statue was created and placed on the top of the church to indicate that it is devoted to the Archangel.

One of the largest supermarket chains in Italy is Conad. I entered one of these shops to buy a bottle of water and glanced at the prices for one of such popular items as olive oil. In fact, the prices for oil in Russia would be doubled in comparison with this supermarket. So, it can be a good idea to buy several bottles if you have enough space in your baggage. Unfortunately, I cannot afford buying anything, because I am travelling with hand luggage.

I returned in Bagni Di Lucca before the sunset. So, I had some time left to observe this place and locate some new sights.

Italy, The Italian Vacation

It is Autumn in Russia. To prolong the warm days is the typical wish of any Siberian man. Luckily, there are some countries where Summer is still reigning. And Italy is one of such pleasant countries. So, I headed to this great land to catch more sunny days.

At the same time the heavy rains are highly possible in Italy at this period of time. Nevertheless, it must be comfortable there even at wet season. At least I will be able to find the source of genuine inspiration among these famous Tuscany landscapes and outstanding architecture.

Vnukovo airport positively surprises. Everything was really fast, including the physical inspection and check-in. Even such a small detail as the Aeroexpress arriving to the covered platform deserves a separate respect from my side.

It is the lowcoster Pobeda I am flying with, and the lunch is not provided aboard. So, I went to Burger King for loading with the Double Wooper and extra halapenio. It cost me only 291 rubles. I hope, in Italy there is a healthy food, and it is affordable.

3 hours and 30 minutes is the duration of the flight from Moscow to Pisa. Meanwhile, sitting in the armchair I realized that something was missing in my perception. I felt the lack of something, which always accompanied me during the first day of any journey. Sometimes I name it euphoria, but sometimes I define it as the taste of the forthcoming adventures, or anticipation of joy. Anyways, I do not feel anything like this at the moment. Probably, I am getting old and stale, and there are not many things, which are able to excite me now. It is sad. Still, there is hope, that it is about tiredness and big tension only, and eventually I will find the trip really captivating.

We arrived to Pisa. The airport is extremely close to the city centre, and I have no reason to use any public transport, because I am not in the real rush. In fact, it is only 2 kilometers from the airport to the central train station, from where I am going to continue the way to my first place of staying.

The city of Pisa is located on the west coast of Italy, in Tuscany. It has the unique geographical position, and it might be highly appreciated by those, who are willing to combine such things as seaside and mountains in one trip.

Pisa is divided into two parts the North and the South by the legendary river Arno, which is secondly important in the Central Italy after the Tiber. In fact, Arno starts in the Apennines, goes all along Tuscany, crosses such cities as Empoli and Florence, and flows into the Tyrrhenian Sea near Pisa.

They say that in Pisa there are many interesting monuments, churches and squares to visit. However, the leaning tower is what pops up in people's mind when they hear the city's name. And I also was interested primarily in seeing this tower, which is located in a grassy field known as 'Piazza dei Miracoli' (or 'Square of miracles' in English).

It is a particular kind of entertainment to observe, how the people around are taking the different amusing positions, trying to play up the unusual reclining state of the tower.

It was a big surprise to see that there is something else near the tower. For example, the Cathedral, which is considered to be one of the greatest examples of Romanesque architecture. However, people seem to be not interested in that at all.

Very soon I turned back to the central station, because I have a train ticket to the town of Bagni di Lucca, where my first 'vacation house' is located.

While waiting for the train, you should be aware of the fact that they may change the departure platform. However, there is the panel with online information, and additionally they duplicate the announcement in Italian and English voice.

I was at the station of Bagni di Lucca in 1 hour. There were another 2 kilometres to get to my temporary house.

In general, it seems to be a rural place. At least at 8 pm there were not many people in the streets. Furthermore, the pedestrians areas are not well developed here, but fortunately, the cars do not often drive by. The supermarkets are closing at 8 pm. And on top of that, the mobile network is unstable here. Very rural place, but atmospheric one.

I was warmly met by the hosts Carlos and Cecilia, and after a short conversation I went out to study the new surroundings. One kilometer away from my apartments I discovered the restaurant 'Da MaMo', where I stayed for the long-expected supper.

When visiting the resting room I was confused, how to use a sink. I could not understand for a while how to turn the tap on. As it turned out, there is a special pedal, which controls the water flow.

So, at the restaurant I went for seafood salad and pizza Margherita. I was slightly surprised when they served the first meal. It was not the salad with green vegetables as I expected initially, but the plate with different seafood, and at the bottom they placed a few green leaves. Simple and delicious. Pizza was also good, as well as home white wine and espresso for the dessert. All in all I paid 21.5 euro. Fair enough.

On the way back I enjoyed the silence of the sleeping town. A little bit scary, but charming.